On the shape of nonlinear wave trains

Abstract:

As the water depth decreases or the sea severity increases, nonlinearity becomes more relevant and waves deviate from the Gaussian surface. Second–order wave theory is, in general, able to capture much of the nonlinearity. Measurements made in finite water depth, however, show that second–order wave profiles fail to restore second–order effects at high nonlinear levels. Influence of directional spreading and combined seas is also looked at.

Año de publicación:

2005

Keywords:

Fuente:

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