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The Return of Terroir: the Reawakening of Wine Culture in Spain<sup>*</sup>

Abstract:

This article explores the emergence and current debate around the terroirist movement in Spain and the social movements behind it in rural areas. The transformation of the Spanish wine scene has become an object of study in academic, political and social spheres. Spain boasts the largest vineyard area in the world and the largest export volume, but also the lower the average sale price of liter globally. In addition, it lacks zoning policies, which makes Spain unique among traditionally wine producing countries such as France, Italy or Portugal. However, a group of producers are challenging the industrial viticultural model in Spain, strengthening networks in rural areas throughout the country and participating in national and international actions with the aim of producing quality wines with high prices, recovering traditionally productive regions, autochthonous grape varieties, and restoring the wine culture in Spain. While can present elitist tendencies in some cases, it is radical in its challenge to large companies, industries and cooperatives, a powerful lobby that influences the current system of governance of the sector based on the system of appellations of origin.